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The
"largest unbroken tract of virgin hardwood timber
in the U.S.," according to a 1940s Department of
Conservation description, the Porcupine Mountains area
encompasses tens of thousands of acres in Gogebic and
Ontonagon Counties on the shores of Lake Superior in
the western Upper Peninsula. The Mountains "are
startling in their infinite variety of cool, dense forests;
breath-taking heights; roaring and rumbling waterfalls;
and awe-inspiring vistas," said the Department
of Conservation in a booklet describing its hopes to
purchase a recreation area.
But
as World War II ended, there was a threat.
Said
the Department: "Logging companies are nibbling
at the fringes and promise to invade the interior at
an early date. The country they have left behind them
is typical hardwood cut over land cleared of all standing
timber except the defective trees. This should not happen
to the Porcupine Mountains."
As
early as 1925, state parks chief P. J. Hoffmaster had
proposed a state park in the area, his first recommendation
calling for a minimum buy of 22,000 acres. But the Legislature
had never appropriated the money.
In
1942, conservationists joined with the department. The
legendary Aldo Leopold wrote in Outdoor America that
the remaining unlogged land in the Porcupines was "a
symbol. It portrays a chapter in national history which
we should not be allowed to forget. When we abolish
the last sample of the Great Uncut, we are, in a sense,
burning books
To preserve a remnant of decent forest
for public education is surely a proper function of
government, regardless of one's view on the moot question
of large-scale timber production."
Michigan
outdoor writer Ben East also decried the potential loss
of the Porcupine forest, lamenting, "The mistakes
made in the great pine harvest 50 to 75 years ago, mistakes
Michigan still has ample cause to regret, are being
repeated day by day in the hardwood country of the Porcupines."
Raymond
Dick, an Ironwood produce dealer, was already on the
case. In 1940, he had established the Save the Porcupine
Mountains Association, an unusually effective lobbying
instrument which eventually included in its membership
Vice President Henry Wallace, the director of the National
Park Service, former Governor Chase Osborn and Leopold.
Dick invited Governor Kelly to visit the area. Kelly,
who had lost a leg in World War I, was only able to
get to the mouth of the Presque Isle River but saw enough
of the area's beauty to commit himself to the project.
He said the area should be "purchased for preservation
as a timber museum" to hold the land in trust for
future generations. The Legislature acted with unusual
swiftness, appropriating $1 million before the end of
February. But the Porcupines were not yet safe.
Lumberman
Gordon Connor had asked the Legislature to carve out
8,000 acres from the proposed 43,000-acre park but had
been refused. Only 2,880 acres, or about one-third of
the Connor holdings, were excluded. In response, he
accelerated his timber cutting.
Hoffmaster
refused to back down. The company wanted to skin lands
along the Presque Isle River, which his department said
were among the most scenic in the park, and timber along
the shoreline between the river mouth and the mountains.
By then the company had laid track for a railroad across
the Presque Isle River to cut through three-quarters
of a mile of the park to get into land it owned outside
the boundaries.
Hoffmaster
asked the Conservation Commission to initiate condemnation
proceedings to take the remaining land. The Commission
did so in April, asking the Attorney General to go to
court to restrain Connor Company from cutting any of
the lands now included in the park boundaries. Although
the condemnation proceedings bounced around in courts
for eight years, the state was able to secure the lands
and the company never touched the prime acreage.
The
victory was an enormous one, celebrated nationally.
"
[I]t is no exaggeration to say it is being
done in the nick of time," wrote Dorothea Kahn
of the Christian Science Monitor. "The axes of
lumbermen could be heard at the borders of the forest."
The
Porcupine Mountains State Park faced two subsequent
threats. In 1958, mineral companies took an interest
in copper ore believed to lie beneath the park. The
Bear Creek Mining Company asked in May of that year
for a lease to explore over 900 acres under the park
and another 5,200 acres of Lake Superior bottomland.
On
one side were the company and many residents of the
area, which suffered chronically high unemployment.
On the other was a coalition of groups led by the Michigan
United Conservation Clubs and guided by its executive
director, James Rouman. The coalition united under the
banner of the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness Association.
Selling 85,000 stamps featuring the Lake of the Clouds,
the Association marshaled both state and national public
opinion against the proposed lease.
The
organizing effort worked. Bear Creek lost its support
on the Conservation Commission and withdrew its request
for the lease in January 1959.
The
climactic battle to save the Porcupines from development
occurred in 1971. Prepared in consultation with local
officials and environmentalists alike, a proposed state
management plan would set side 35,000 acres of the park
as permanent, unspoiled wilderness. A parade of witnesses
at a public hearing in Lansing argued for the wilderness
designation. Margery Fahrenbach, the daughter of the
late Department of Conservation Director Hoffmaster,
emotionally pleaded with the state: "My father
fought long and hard to help acquire this area for the
people of Michigan. He loved those mountains with their
wild and unspoiled beauty, and I believe he envisioned
them as a 'preservation,' a bit of country that should
and can be preserved as God made it."
The
only witness speaking in favor of development was Gordon
Connor, president of the firm that had raced in 1944
to log what was now the state park. But the Department
of Natural Resources rejected his plea, and the park
got a new name: "Porcupine Mountains Wilderness
State Park."
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